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Backup Plan

The state of Washington – at least the western side – is, in my humble opinion, one of the most beautiful states in the U.S.  In Seattle you can immerse yourself in hues of green you thought existed only in paintings or heavily-photoshopped photographs.  There’s a reason they call it the Emerald City.

Have I mentioned green is my favorite color?

But of course on the flipside, there’s the rain.  It’s the blessing/curse that makes all the verdant beauty possible but, when preempted with continuous overcast, dull gray skies, can start to drag you down after awhile.

So far in this Costa Rica rainy season we’ve been very lucky.  It rains almost every afternoon, but that follows at least 5 or 6 hours of heavenly sunshine.  Except for the last 3 days.  Three days of clouds.  And it’s all thanks to Hurricane Matthew which, according to weatherstreet.com, is apparently heading toward Central America in a hurry.

In honor of our very own Hurricane Matthew, Jota (remember those guys?) put together a little something special.

Hurricane Matthew

At least the real hurricane is staying pretty far north of Costa Rica.

But anyway, the rain is fitting because someone left us this week – someone we will miss dearly.  And even though she left us for a better place – an island off the coast of Florida, to be exact – I think the significance of the fact that we’re not going to see her again before we leave here is only just now starting to sink in.

Judy

Meet our “host mother,” Judy.  We’re staying in Judy and her husband Gifford’s beautiful home while we’re here, and Judy has been one of the most gracious hostesses I’ve ever had the pleasure of mooching off of – err… staying with.

From her homemade hummus to her vastly better-than-mine beans ‘n rice, Judy has spoiled us rotten over the last 4 weeks sharing her delicious food, vast knowledge of holistic healing, exceedingly comfortable diggs, and, best of all, the pleasure of her company.

Erin and I imagined we’d one day have to share a tearful goodbye with someone on whom we’ve come to lean and ask for guidance, but we never, ever, ever imagined that she’d be the one to leave us!  The news came as a bit of a surprise and, as with all great relationships that eventually come to an end due to insurmountable circumstances, it might take us a little while to get over this one.

But we do have plenty to keep us busy.  With Hurricane Matthew spoiling our beach plans for the weekend, our friend Carla will be giving us some rainy-day cooking lessons.

Carla

We were too shortsighted to take advantage of that with Judy while she was here, and we don’t intend to make the same mistake with Carla.  Her “Tico food” is out of this world delicious, so stay tuned for some peeks at how she intends to fatten us up this weekend.

Conversational Gems, Pt. 1

Katie: “I hate my eyebrows.  They make me look like Whoopi Goldberg.”

Me: “They do not.  Trust me, I wouldn’t look at you if you looked like Whoopi Goldberg all the time.”

Katie: “Racist.”

PB and WHAT?

Hold onto your hats, people, because the good folks at Valrico Peanut Butter are revolutionizing everything you thought you knew about optimizing your peanut butter enjoyment:

For children and adults, you say?

On bread or crackers?

Mixed with jam or even jelly?

Get out of town.

Thank  you, Valrico Peanut Butter, for opening our eyes to a world of new and exciting flavors.

Now go forth and spread the Gospel, people.

Eight-Legged Freaks

Allow me to state for the record that I am not a fan of spiders.

In fact, I am the exact opposite of being a fan of spiders.

In fact, on the list of things that bum me out, spiders rank somewhere between being eaten alive by polar bears and a nuclear holocaust.

Everything about them–from their beady eyes to their spindly, hairy legs–seems sinister and malevolent and completely unworthy of my compassion.

Mind you, I am not this way about most of God’s less fluffy creations.

Snakes?  No problem.

Lizards?  Let’s dance.

Bats?  Bring ’em on.

But spiders?

Let me put it this way:  If I had my choice of being hit in the face repeatedly with a shovel or having a Daddy Long Legs crawl on my arm, I’d go ahead and pop some Extra Strength Excedrin and clear my schedule for the next week or so.

So, it’s cosmically fitting that this would appear in our bathroom this weekend:

Allow me to reiterate: THIS…

…IS LIVING IN OUR BATHROOM.

It found itself a nice little vantage point on the ceiling above our shower Sunday morning and, since Katie and I each have a strict No Contact policy when it comes to icky things (and have been so far unsuccessful in convincing the other to amend hers), has been leering at us from up there for two whole days now.

Look, I’m fully aware that spiders are part of the Great Circle of Life or whatever, but if this is Nature’s attempt to teach me some integral lesson on how to peacefully coexist with my eight-legged brethren, it was a poor location choice because, sorry, but I find it a tad hard to sympathize with the plight of something that has seen me in all my naked, vulnerable, soaking wet glory.

This will not do.  If it’s still there after work today, decisions will need to be made.  Strategies devised.  Perimeters secured.  Attacks mounted.

And I wish Katie all the best with that.

Tonight, I’ll be sleeping at the office.

A Most Unexpected Visitor

A few nights ago, Erin and I were having a rare, quiet evening indoors.  I had just cooked us a dinner of thick quesadillas with sautéed onions, mushrooms, and some type of orange cheese that melted into a beautiful, gooey, stringy mess.  Chased with a couple of our favorite Nicaraguan beers, it was decidedly more successful than our attempt at rice ‘n beans.

It hadn’t even started to congeal in our arteries when we heard a knock at the door.

Who could that be? We thought.

We weren’t expecting any company, and the couple of miles on the dirt road that carries you from town to our place of residence may as well be a million to those of our (mostly car-less) friends who dare navigate the labyrinth of potholes in the pitch black of night.

Not to mention the fact that we didn’t hear anyone approach, and our windows were wide open.  We’re in Costa Rica and we have no a/c.  Our windows are always open.

Erin crept to the door and I followed close behind.  You know, to watch her back.  Then she opened the door to a most unexpected visitor, indeed.

Hey, I heard you girls are new in town.  I thought maybe I could take you out, buy you a few flies, you know… rrrrrribbit…. see where things go.

Then maybe we could head back to my place and take a dip in the pond.

Rrrrrribbit.

No?

Well, it was worth a shot.

Stupid gringas.

Celebrate Good Times

Two days ago the Central American country of Costa Rica celebrated 189 years of independence.  It was kind of a big deal.

And while we didn’t see any fireworks here in the little town of Bagaces, the people here proved that they do, without a doubt, know how to celebrate.

People lined the streets to watch a parade put on by school students of all ages.  Some were dressed in beautiful (I’m assuming traditional?) clothes.

Bagaces, Costa Rica Independence Day

Don’t let all the jeans fool you – it was HOT outside.

Bagaces, Costa Rica Independence Day

I think the entire town showed up – lining the streets and even climbing trees to watch the parade.

Bagaces, Costa Rica Independence Day Parade

Our friend Karla’s son played the drum.

Parade Drums

Oh, the drums.

Bagaces School Band

This isn’t your typical American high school marching band.  This was something else.  Something spectacular.  The rhythm was palpable.  And the energy of the players – even through the heat – was incredible.  They jumped in the air, throwing the barrels behind their backs like it was nothing.  It wasn’t just music.  It was a dance.  It was intense.

Bagaces Costa Rica School Drums

What I learned that day about this town is that the people here are really no different from any small community in the U.S.  They love gathering for celebrations, and all of the related accoutrements: eating great food, listening to fun music, and of course, showing off their babies.

By the way, I really think Erin and I are finally starting to blend in.

Don’t you think?

The Fruits Of Our Labor

See this?

What is this?

Pinto, a world-travelling intern from Spain who’s been working here for approximately the past 5 years, always brings strange and wonderful fruits to work and offers to let us try them.

Meet Pinto.

Pinto is a wandering engineer who doesn’t believe in marriage and somehow always manages to get his food before anyone else when we go to our most frequented restaurant here in Bagaces.

And, like I said, Pinto is generous with fruit – fruit he buys from the local street vendors – fruit I’m always eager to try.

But I’ll admit – when I saw this sitting on my desk, I was a little skeptical.  I mean – it looks more like a toy I’d buy for my dogs than something edible.

I had to look inside.

Oooh!  What’s that?  Some type of gummy, gooey, gelatinous substance.  Like something out of Alien

Costa Ricans call this a mamón chino, otherwise known as a rambutan (according to Wikipedia).  This is the edible “meat” inside.  Should I eat it?

Hells yeah I should.  It was good. Tangy, sweet, and a really cool texture.  The only thing I did not enjoy was the woody seed I managed to splinter in my mouth with my teeth – the seed I’m just now reading on Wikipedia is “mildly poisonous” when eaten raw.

Oops.

My mistake.  This time. But next time?  Next time I’ll be ready.

Costa Rica is So Clique-y

Remember that one common area in high school where everyone would hang out in the morning before the first bell?

Remember that feeling you’d get walking through that gauntlet as a Freshman?  Feeling the heat of a thousand beady upper-classman eyes boring into you, mercilessly dissecting your merchandise and fashion choices?

No matter who you were or how confident and carefree you felt before you entered that high school, you suddenly became the thin-skinned, self-conscious, shaky Chihuahua of Social Inadequacy.

Your JanSport backpack felt immediately uncool.  Your Sketchers, beyond lame.  Your cuffed jeans were now a crime against humanity.  And your scrunchy…

Dear God, your scrunchy.

That’s what it feels like, every single day I walk to work.  Instantly, I’m transported back to that horrible moment where all eyes are on you.  Watching you. 

Judging you.

I mean, they don’t even try to act polite about it.

I know they’re whispering about how I wore the exact same outfit last week.  And the week before that.

And the week before that.

Seriously.  What are you looking at, freakshow?

Ein Boot. Un Barco. Whatever – It’s a Boat.

I knew before we came to Costa Rica that the language situation would be a challenge.  And when I say “language situation,” I mean the fact that I speak next to no Spanish.  Nada.  Remember?

I’m lucky so many people speak English here, but I still feel like a standoffish gringo bitch whenever one of the non-English-speaking employees tries to talk to me at work.  I grasp at the air, desperately trying to pick up a few words I might recognize in the outpouring of one-sided conversation.

T-shirts San Juan del Sur

This “situation” has led to more than one embarrassing moment, not excluding the time last week when one of my co-workers came into the restroom a minute after me.  She was chatting away, presumably asking questions, judging from the inflection in her voice.  Hearing no one answer her, I assumed she was talking to someone on her cell phone.  I couldn’t tell, since – you know – I was sitting in the stall, pants around my ankles, oblivious to even the most basic of human interactions in any country – women gabbing in a restroom – that she was talking to me.  Duh.

I literally let her go on for 2 minutes while I sat there as she searched for some type of response – any type of response – to let her know that there was, in fact, another woman sitting in the stall next to her and not some psycho person creepin’ in the girls’ restroom.  Finally she started calling out names… Vivian?  Carla?  Erin? (I love how they pronounce Erin’s name here – Aireeen? With a lovely roll of the “r”.)  Then, finally – Katie?!

In retrospect that really should’ve been her first guess.  I mean, everyone here knows that I’m the ignorant one.  So really, the total confusion was her fault.  Right?

San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

Anyway.  I am picking some stuff up.  I’ve learned how to say bitch (puta), dickface (carapichá), and of course, una más cerveza, por favor.  I think the most confusing issue for me (and everyone around me) is the fact that every time I try to speak, I’m mixing English, a wee bit of Spanish, and… wait for it… German.

Yes, I’m that girl.

I took German classes all throughout highschool and 3 years in college.  So, when I try to speak a language other than my native tongue, I automatically deflect to German.  It’s what I’ve always known.

Old Boat San Juan del Sur

Ein boot?  Un barco?  A boat.

But crappy Spangermlish aside, I hope my minuscule improvements – no matter how slight and wrought with errors – at least make it known that I am trying.  I didn’t want to come down here and presume everyone would accommodate me by speaking in English.  In fact, I originally assumed that I’d pretty much be a social outcast, lurking in corners with a drink in one hand, cigarette in the other (no mom, I did not pick up smoking – it ‘s for visual effect), mutely surveilling the Ticos and my American friends as they talk about me not behind my back but in front of my face because I’m just. that. dumb.

Graffiti San Juan del Sur

And I would have deserved that.

But it’s really not that way here.  The patience of some of these people as I struggle through a simple sentence that comes out sounding like a 2-year-old crack-addicted schizophrenic with Tourette’s (Yo quiero un… shit! – como se dice “ride”? – ah, paseo… al la… al la… oh puta.  Tienda?) is astounding.  And sure – there’s probably the occasional – okay daily – chuckle at my expense, but that would be a human thingnot a Tico thing.

Even while completely surrounded by it, learning a new language is hard.  At least for me.  And I’ll tell you one thing – it’s far more difficult for the people living in Latin America to decipher my Spangermlish that it is for me to “push 1 for English” in the United States.

Wall, San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

Shut Up and Smile

Today, I’m in the mood to complain. 

Boy howdy, am I in the mood to complain today.

I want to whine about how I woke up this morning with my nose stuffed up, my chest congested and my eyeballs aching… yet again.

I want to piss and moan about how my pits are perennially gnarly, my upper lip is permanently sweat-stached, and how it seems entirely possible that my feet will be constantly covered in filth and muck forever and ever until the end of eternity, amen.

I want to wail and gnash my teeth about how I miss my husband and family and curling iron.  I want to curse the gods for having to formulate complicated arrangements involving no less than three different modes of  transportation a week in advance just to get to a grocery store to buy bread.  I want to lie down and roll around on the ground while kicking and screaming about the unfairness of being sick nearly every single day of the three weeks we’ve been in Costa Rica.

And, normally, I would.  Because that’s the kind of miserable, ungrateful person I am.

Seriously, have you met me?

But, today, I can’t seem to do it.  Because, for the moment, I’m stopped dead in my tracks by all the unsympathetic beauty of the world around me.

And it’s making me remember that I’m lucky that I have a nose to get stuffy and pits to get gnarly and feet to get muddy and a husband, family and curling iron to miss.

And, for that, some small, rational part of me sends up thanks to the Great Whoever that I’m alive to experience all the loneliness and unfairness and crappiness of life.

And so, today, I think I will just shut up and smile.